Friday, September 24, 2010

And now for the car...

With the engine installed and running okay, it went for it's maiden voyage.

Not a bad looking original paint car hey?

After giving the car the beans around the local streets, I checked the distributor advance and found it was not as consistent as I would like on my own car's so I removed the 010 and put the 009 back in (temporarily). This solved the advance problem for now even though it looks like crap. The 010 rotor isn't as tight on the distributor shaft as I would like so need to get that sorted out and install another day (good thing I have a few 010's on the shelf).
As for the linkage, I have had to revisit that a couple more times. The main problem with this wonderful CSP linkage is that the right side linkage arm hits the underside of the generator slightly and at full throttle, it hits the generator stand as it comes around to the most severe part of the arc. I have gently filed the underside of the generator to clear the rod and also done a bit of work to the generator stand casting to clear it but it's now only got a bee's dick of clearance. I suppose if it clears, it's good to go.
Also, I believe there is a fault in the design of these carbs. The throttle's don't return to the closed position 100%. You get perhaps 97%. Yes this is with the linkage disconnected!
As I don't have any other Wolfsburg West carbs for reference, this might be something not common to all of the carbs, but rest assured this is a pain in the arse. The linkage does indeed have the return spring in the middle, however when the engine is warm, I thinks that due to the slight thermal expansion, we are going to have a slightly elevated idle on 1 x carb and un-synchronised carb's. That's just my thoughts now and I could be wrong, but I am not sure that a push-pull linkage is the way to go. Good in theory but not so good in practice.
With the car now back with the owner, I can get back into my own projects (yippee!).
Some of the fun stuff going on right now in my garage:
  • 100% visually correct 1500 'S' engine assembly and parts gathering (bottom end assembly won't be far off now)
  • steering wheel alteration- I am looking to reduce the diameter of a standard VW steering wheel slightly but retain it's original look
  • MK 2 GTI body work- some f^%k wit reversed into my daily driver GTI recently, so I am now in the middle of repairs to get that car back to original. Not something I wanted to do but since the car is a low mileage beasty, it's worth the effort to keep it on the road
  • Chrysler work- I have a 1966 Chrysler Valiant (AP6) Utility (or pick up as the Americans would say) with a nice 318ci V8 and it needs some minor repairs to get back in order. The car was restored about 10-15 years ago and just parked. Some of the works already have involved the fuel system- clogged filters, torn Holley diaphragm, fuel pump, and now the fuel tank resto (so much crud and rust inside). I am now at the point where it's cosmetic work such as relocating the alternator to where I want and that sort of work. A neat old car and I think it's good to have an interest in non VW's to help you keep across what the rest of the car fraternity are up to.

Saturday, September 11, 2010

WW Dual Port 36hp up and running

Saturday was busy, I installed the engine into the client's car and after messing about with all sorts of bits and pieces, got the engine fired up. Virtually first crank of the starter too!

I have some final details to do- the generator pulley is still at the paint shop so installed a temporary unit.

The wiring needs a bit more tidy up but is all connected and working- I think some black outer sheathing to protect the regulator wires is in order.

The heater boxes are installed but with out the flaps- the ones on this engine were damaged and missing pieces so for now there is no heat. The owner needs to dig up a new heater cable for the car anyway so that's not a show stopper.

The coil needs a paint job and a new decal to be applied and then that will look the business.

The oil pressure switch was wrong (later type) so I installed my last NOS early screw type which is correct for this engine. Looks all the better for it too. There is nothing worse than a 36hp engine with all the wrong details like later oil pressure switches, 009 distributors and especially 13mm ATF hardware. But anyway....

So what problems have I encountered with the WW kit? The CSP linkage does slightly touch the generator stand which is sort of okay- it's just grazing it. The air cleaners hit the deck lid when it's up- we are only talking about 1 mm but it's enough to rip the paint off slightly. I think the deck lid should be slightly power filed back to clear (that's what I would do if it were my car). Apart from those small things, I think it's a great kit for the money. Even without driving the car (the brakes are suspect), I can tell the engine has more response and wants to rev up.

Who would have thought that here in 2010, we would still be messing about with these old VW engines and new products would be available for them?